This former logging and sand-mining site is home to the protected piping plover, and the only US Wilderness Area in lower MI And now, you can camp here among the 4000 year old dunes, with heart-stopping views, picture-perfect sunsets, and the night sky that doesn't quit.

People "out west" are spoiled, Fellow Travelers. The land there is thick with pockets of wilderness, and you can hardly help snagging the edge of one on your way to the Safeway for a carton of eggs.

Here, in the big city nestled amid the corn belt, we have to find our wilderness however we can. And this is actually the raison d'etre of this newsletter: I happen to believe that you don't have to cross the globe, or the North American continent, in search of nature and solitude.

In the case I present to you today --if you are Chicagoan-- you will have to cross two state lines and a time zone.

OK, I literally stole this photo (and the one further down, as you will see). I did reach out to the owner to get permission, but --since I did not receive a response-- I guess I will possibly have to beg his forgiveness later.

Because, I mean, just look at it! It's PERFECT: the tent, with the soft glow of lantern emanating from inside, the lone camper silhouette outlined by the fire, all this sheltered within a sweeping valley that could be in any corner of the earth, any distant an remote wilderness, and that solitary tree beyond the swell of land suggesting some further landscape against the peach-fading-to-purple-reign twilight!

WOW!

What lies beyond??

Where can you go, when the city has gotten so deep under your skin that you need a truly deep cleanse to exfoliate the stress, the effects of noise and pollution, the constant presence of others (real or virtual), the ubiquitous glowing screens, the pressure to be somewhere and to do something all the time?

Where is that nowhere you could be in the middle of?

Away from sounds (except maybe bird song and the lapping of the waves), where your cell phone literally can't be part of your reality, where you drop the identity you carry around on your shoulders like a sack of potatoes...

Where you can tune into your own inner compass, find your own heartbeat, and then --once you take that first really full and free exhale (aaaaahhhhhhh!.....)-- you can resonate with the pulse of the natural world around you...

What lies beyond the boundaries of that photo, Fellow Travelers, is our very own Lake Michigan.

Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area

One of the closest designated wilderness spots to Chicago, Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area is a long swath of remote Lake Michigan beach buffered by beautifully preserved dunes. It is accessible within a 4 hour drive from Chicago, and therefore perfectly doable as a long weekend excursion (but, by all means, take longer if you can, and not necessarily on an actual weekend).

For die-hard backpackers and through-hikers, the 13 miles of trails through Nordhouse may not seem like much (more on that below). But it's not a hiking destination in a true sense of the word; loose dune sand is not exactly a hiker's dream. Instead, it's a place where you hike in to enjoy the remoteness and solitude of dispersed camping along the shoreline of a Great Lake.

The best part is that whether you’re new to backcountry camping or a seasoned pro, there’s something here for your comfort level.

Camping options

There are two main points with parking and access to Nordhouse trails and camping: Lake Michigan Recreation Area (north) and the Nurnberg Trailhead (south).

If you're feeling skittish about remote camping on your first try, there are options to set up camp that won't require a long hike starting from Lake Michigan Recreation Area parking. Here, you are likely to run into other campers if you cruise back to your car for anything you might have left behind.

On the other hand, if want to get the hell away from all the people, start at Nurnberg (on the southern end) load up your gear hit the trail. In a little over a mile (it seems longer over sandy trails) you'll be within sight of the beach.

Campsites must be located at least 400 feet away from the water, and you'll be better off tucked back along the ridge, with the dunes providing a bit of a windbreak in case you want to build a fire. You'll still likely get the uninterrupted million dollar views pretty much all to yourself, all for the measly $5 daily parking fee.

Timing & Logistics

But to claim this prime camping real estate, your timing has to be impeccable. If you can (a) avoid weekends, (b) avoid peak season, or better yet (c) avoid both. Many campers pack out in the late morning, which makes arriving at about noon the perfect time to load up, hike in and score one of the coveted spots.

Though the parking areas might seem busy if you do happen to arrive at peak time, once you get among the dunes, it doesn’t feel crowded at all.

Since this is a US Wilderness area, no wheeled vehicles of any kind are allowed (including bicycles and carts). This means everything has to be brought in on your back and carried out as well (complete wilderness etiquette centers around the principles of treading lightly, and leaving no trace).

Variation

Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness is adjacent at its southern end to Ludington SP. Although you can't connect to Nordhouse through the State Park by car, for the more adventurous, it is possible to string together a longer hiking/backpacking trip using both areas (as one person documented here >>warning: about a zillion photos!!).

Combining trails of both parks results in a route of about 30 miles, including gloriously beautiful piney trails skirting Hamlin and Lost Lake, and the secluded Nordhouse Lake, with views like this:

Here's a sample packing list for a two-day self-supported bike camping trip. It should give you some ideas for what to pack, except that you will be schlepping it on your back, and not in panniers on the back of a bike.

Note that I carried both, a collapsible chair and a hammock. For a trip where I have to haul everything in without the benefit of wheels, I might choose one over the other (except that it's a really hard choice to make, and maybe just deal with the extra pound or two; it's not the Appalachian Trail, after all 🙄).

For cooking, it's easy to gather firewood throughout the area using only downed, dead wood (you'll want to do this before nightfall). You may want to tuck a small pruning saw into your pack in case found branches need to be trimmed to more convenient size.

Found fuel is also great if you choose (as I did) to rely on the Vargo stove for cooking. I would be comfortable doing that in fairly dry conditions, with abundant natural fuel and using a fire starter, such as Baddest Bee fire wicks. If you bring a folding cooking grate (like this), you'll be able to enjoy some of the delicacies listed below.

Since this is a bona fide wilderness, you must bring everything in that you think you will need. And that includes water. Depending on the length of your stay, you can bring bottled water. However, the proximity Lake Michigan makes this an ideal spot to use portable water filtration system, even something as tiny at the MSR Trailshot, which filters a quart of water in about a minute. We used in on a bikepacking trip along Lake Huron, and saved ourselves from carrying many pounds of water weight.

If you're coming from Chicago, chances are you will be arriving the night before you get to camp, and spending a civilized night in a motel. If so, don't miss supper at The Perch, with a nice outdoor deck overlooking Hamlin Lake in all its piney glory.

For fresh provisions (at least on your first day of camping) you've got to stock up on jalapeno-cheddar brats at Northside Market. I know. It's a GAS STATION. But --trust me--THEY KNOW MEAT. Go get some, and thank me later. You can also get great pre-made sandwiches, salads and choose from a huge selection of beverages. No, they don't have a website.

After you break camp, on the way back home, fuel up for the return trip with breakfast at Jolly Plate. Or, if you're willing to drive a bit further on an empty stomach, and stray off the beaten path, choose something from the phenomenal breakfast menu at Michigan Base Camp in Mears, MI.

You won't be so sorry that your microescape is over with all that yummy food in you 😃.

I know this itinerary is a bit more of a commitment. Put it on your calendar for the not-too-distant future (mid-September??), when you know you can carve out a few days. But if you want something with a similar feel sooner and shorter, here are some suggestions:

Overnight camping at Central Beach, Indiana Dunes NP (⬅️ scroll way down) walk-in primitive campsites are tucked up in the dunes and far enough off the trail ensure plenty of privacy. Enjoy a dune scramble to the beach, and some of the darkest night skies near Chicago. As at Nordhouse, everything must be carried in and out.

Or, if you can't manage an overnight right now, but a bit of camping sounds very therapeutic, try some uncamping or tarping until you can shake a little more free time from your schedule.

Thank you for being here, and let me know what you think, OK?

​ ​ See you next week for another dose of --Justyna ​ ​

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