A self-supported, car-free bike-camping mini-tour. Wow! That's a lot of hyphens! Whether you're a beginner looking to dip your toe in the bike touring waters, or a touring veteran in search of a short getaway, we've got a plan for Lake Michigan camping for you!

Hello, Fellow Travelers!

Don't be fooled by the back-to-school (more hyphens!) extravanganza going on in all the megamalls and online. We are actually currently smack dab in the middle of the middle week of summer. You can't get much more midsummer than we are right now, and yes, it kinda means that it's all downhill from here, but it also means we still have half of it left on our plates to do with as we please.

And the really lovely thing about summer (other than being able to swim in Lake Michigan) is that you can really pack light.

So this photo above? They have minimalism down to an art. Just look at it:

1. A simple 3-speed bike --no twitchy derailleurs!
2. Spare lines of the leather saddle.
3. Ultra-simple rear rack.
4. Classic canvas and leather satchels.
5. Tarp for shelter.
6. Sleeping bag.

That's it, fellow travelers. Simplicity of summer camping, encapsulated in a single photo.

But, for me personally, bedding down in the grass midsummer sans bug net? That's a hard NO.

So, how to translate the spirit of this pared down adventure into something that works for your life, your temperament and with the gear you have at your disposal, without adding complexity, but putting it within reach?

Ever since we visited the lovely town of Port Washington, WI a couple of years ago, and cruised on the Ozaukee Interurban Trail, I thought it would be a great idea to extend the ride by starting from Milwaukee, hitting some picturesque Wisconsin towns along the way, and setting up camp somewhere on the cooling shores of Lake Michigan before heading back in a day or two (or however many you've got).

But the real motivation for me was to see if the whole trip could be executed by Brompton folding bike.

Brompton's ability to transform from a relatively small piece of luggage to fully capable personal conveyance definitely expands the horizons for local explorers, and begs the question of what other compact pieces of equipment can be used in similarly world-expanding ways.

I've seen many accounts of Brompton world travelers (and even met some personally), with their diminutive bikes laden with heavy gear, towing trailers, and whatnot.

But what about the opposite?

I decided to go ultra-pared-down, with other gear chosen to match the bike's compactness, packability and portability, and extend the simplicity by going car-free, and embarking directly from my doorstep.

OK, here's the plan.

Depending on how much time you have, and whether you’re doing this as a stand-alone trip, or as part of a longer journey along Lake Michigan, there are two excellent lakefront state parks that can be incorporated into your self-supported bike camping trip.

Short option: Harrington Beach SP

​Harrington Beach SP occupies 715 acres along Lake Michigan, but the campground is about a mile-ish inland.

It features non-electric campsites along the southern loops, which tend to be more tent-friendly. It also has a small number of secluded walk-in or bike-in sites west of the main camping loop for an even more rustic experience ideal for tent camping.

Many of the park’s old trees have been decimated by an ash borer invasion several years ago, but new trees are taking their place, and there’s plenty of other greenery to provide shade and privacy.

The park has shuttle service to get to the lakefront portion, but having a bike makes it easy to explore all areas, including getting to the highlight of the park: a deep, serene 26-acre Quarry Lake surrounded by limestone ledges and lined with white cedar trees.

Long option: Kohler Andrae SP

If you want to stretch your ride by another 20 or so miles, or if you have a few nights at your disposal, you can continue your journey to Kohler Andrae SP. This park sits on a long strip of Lake Michigan frontage, with a campground located only a short walk from the shoreline.

A large number on non-electric sites are available along the southern section. Though not completely rustic, they are more likely to be occupied by tent-campers. They are surrounded by nature trails you can use to hike up to the lakefront beach, and explore the trails around the Black River.

Both parks, but Kohler especially, are extremely popular summertime destinations. I would definitely advise getting there mid-week, with reservations made ahead of time. I camped Mon-Wed, and enjoyed plenty of privacy, peace and quiet.

The Route

If you want to recreate the car-free experience, follow my routing below. However, I'm a big proponent of just getting out there, and if the train option doesn't work for you, please use whatever form of locomotion you prefer and just get yourself to the trailhead🚶‍♀️🚗🐪, 😃).

1. Board the Amtrak Hiawatha from Union Station to Milwaukee Intermodal (if you have a folding bike, you can also board and disembark in Glenview, as I did). The ride is about 1 hour.
2. Follow on-street bike lanes east to get to Oak Leaf Trail near Milwaukee's lakefront.
3. Use the combination of Oak Leaf, Brown Deer, and the bulk of Ozaukee Trail, plus low-traffic country roads into Harrington Beach SP. (My route.)
4. If you choose the long option, the Ozaukee trail seamlessly merges with Sheboygan Interurban Trail in Belgium, WI for another 20 mile ride to Kohler.

Variation

If you want to do something similar on the Michigan side of the lake, a great option is to get yourself to the eastern end of the Kal-Haven Trail (which can be done by car or via Amtrak) and ride this gorgeous, shaded (but unpaved) trail to Covert Campground, a quiet township park tucked among Lake Michigan dunes. (Camping is also available at Van Buren SP, however the park and campground are scheduled for an extended closure on Sept. 2 of this year).

I love the idea of doing tiny little trips like this with a tiny little bike to match, and here's why I think the Brompton is the perfect vehicle for short and spontaneous adventures.

But of course you can use any bike you already have, and here are some tips on evaluating its roadworthiness, and how to improve it.

To keep things simple and as compact as possible, I recommend using smaller bags than you think you'll need, and figuring out what you can omit in order to get everything you need to fit.

With the Brompton, I opted for a smaller bag usually recommended for short in-town rides instead of their ginormous adventure bag.

You can make an analogous choice if you're using a standard bike. For major tours, these Ortlieb Sportroller Panniers are usually recommended as auxiliary front-mounted luggage, but you may find they're the perfect volume to keep you from overpacking on a simple 1-2 night camping trip.

A bike doesn’t offer great options for locking up your food, and I wouldn’t want to worry about critters getting into my food at night. However, I still love the idea of cooking up fresh food instead of relying on dehydrated meals.

One solution is to cook the fresh-ingredient meal upon arriving, and for a single night camp-out, I’d bring pre-chopped ingredients for a hobo skillet (details here), or --if you have access to the real-deal smoked Polish kielbasa-- I'd bring a chunk of that and cook it on a stick over open fire campside, yum 😋).

Breakfast can be a bit tricky, especially if, like me, you are a protein junkie. I'd probably just chill out over my coffee before heading back out on the trail in search of a great breakfast place (see below). But if you're the type that needs to eat upon arising, Peak Refuel makes a few superb shelf-stable breakfast options (<<not and affiliate link; I just really like their stuff 🙂).

If you have the time, here are a few curiosities to check out along your route:

• ​Milwaukee Indoor Outdoor Gear Exchange is a top-rated gear exchange and consignment resource specializing in equipment for hiking, biking, camping, climbing, traveling, skating, swimming, running, and working. OMG, don't miss it, whether on this trip, or whenever you're in Milwaukee!!!
• ​Lion's Den Gorge OK, it's a bit of a detour from the town of Grafton, but the bluff views, and the dramatic staircase descent through the gorge into a strip of pebbly beach and a cooling creek emptying into Lake Michigan, make it really worth your time.
• It you do the full-length trip, explore Black River trails north of Kohler Andrae SP, with a stop at the Black River Museum and the quirky James Tellen Woodland Sculpture Park (which, among other pieces, includes a concreate tableau of winemaking elves).

This route will take you through several pretty Wisconsin towns, where you will definitely wish you had more time for explorations. If you need to stop for refreshment on your journey out or back, here are some great spots to replenish your calories:

In Cedarburg visit Anvil Pub & Grille located in and old blacksmith shop with the most scenic outside seating along a river bend and waterfall. Their menu sounds fancy, but it's a super chill place.

In Grafton 13 North has soaring windows with beautiful river views, But you could simply grab takeout from one of the nearby chains, and eat your meal riverside at Lime Kiln Park.

In Port Washington, you can enjoy cooling lakefront breezes and a wide selection of carefully prepared sandwiches at Dockside Deli, or grab some savories from Daily Baking Co to consume at the lakefront park.

If on a direct route to Kohler, you can refuel in the small hamlet of Belgium, WI at Luxembourg Cafe (awesome selection of breakfast bowls with an upgraded diner vibe) or the more boisterous Kyote's Bar & Grill (tater-tot poutine, anyone?).

If you've made it to the end of this journey, treat yourself to a Wisconsin Supper Club experience at a family-run Majerle's Black River Grill nestled in the woods around the Black River outside of Sheboygan.

How's that for a full itinerary? Yes, yes, yes, put it on your calendar now! You won't regret it. And --if you can't get enough-- here are some more explorations between Chicago and Milwaukee:

• ​Kenosha County​
• ​Racine County​
• ​MWKE County​

And let me know if you want to try a Brompton!

​ See you next week for another dose of --Justyna

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