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Run away to an island...


If it's good enough for a king, it's plenty good enough for you!

Surrounded by azure-blue water, secluded beaches, nightly sunset pageantry, misty twilights and lakeside feasts, you can't help but feel like royalty.

It takes a while to get your "island legs", Fellow Travelers. But once you do, who wants to go back to the mainland?

Islands are magical: self-contained little snippets of land, where the locals have a special kind of grit, and must learn to interact and tolerate each other's quirks, because --well-- it's not like they can move to another neighborhood.

On an island, one way or another, everything you need has to be brought in. Therefore, businesses (if any) are less precious, but more cherished; judged, but relied on all the same; fewer and farther between, but more essential, irreplaceable, (and sometimes more cozy).

OK, so maybe it's not always quite like pulling your kayak up onto a rocky wild scrap of land in the Great Lakes, but disembarking from a ferry onto an island is like being released into a new land, with a promise of discovery, release from the shackles of connectivity and routine, and an implicit understanding that on an island, you always feel both like a guest and an explorer.

I've been fascinated by islands ever since --as a kid-- I read Gerald Durrell's books about growing up on a Greek island of Corfu. It seemed like such paradise, safe and insane at the same time, with its assortment of eccentric characters, a wild menagerie, a whole nut of a self-contained world full of wonders waiting to be cracked.

"Gradually the magic of the island settled over us as gently and clingingly as pollen. Each day had a tranquillity, a timelessness, about it, so that you wished it would never end." --Gerald Durrell

Indeed, some of my best island days seemed to go on forever, like this summer solstice above the 45th Parallel, where pale twilight persisted until well past 10pm.

Though they don't get nearly as much hype as other islands around the globe, some Lake Michigan islands can get a bit crowded during summer months. For slower-paced exploration, the best time to visit is September and October, when the crowds have subsided.

A couple of the islands listed (Mackinac and Bois Blanc) are technically on Lake Huron, but they belong to Mackinac County, which shares the Lake Michigan coastline. Because they are in the Straits, I have included them.

Mackinac Island

Mackinac is the best known and most popular of Great Lakes islands, with numerous amenities, hotels (including the iconic Grand Hotel), shops and restaurants, and its famous car-free lifestyle.

In my opinion, if you're looking for a rustic experience, Mackinac is better done as a day-trip while you're already up in the Northern Michigan area. There's no camping, and hotels and vacation rentals tend to be pricey.

However, getting to and from the island from either Mackinaw City or St. Ignace is quick, with ferries running throughout the day. If you get there early, you can fuel up for the day with coffee and nosh at the Watercolor Cafe featuring waterfront views of neighboring islands!

Despite the touristy vibe, much of the island remains under the purview of a Michigan's first State Park, which offers many miles of trails, some open to bikes, and some reserved only for hiking.

Whether you bring your own or rent one in town, exploring the island by bike is not hard. The main island loop is just over 8 miles. But you can easily turn it into a satisfying day trip with detours along the way to visit some of the most unusual rock formations, including Arch Rock, Devil's Kitchen, Skull Cave, and more. Plus, almost anywhere you go, you'll be treated to unbelievable views of Lake Huron with its clear blue waters rivaling the hues of the Caribbean.

With many restaurant options in town, you won't have trouble finding a place to grab a late lunch or dinner before heading to the mainland. And, don't forget to stock up on --you guessed it!-- FUDGE for the ferry trip back. I'm guessing Mackinac has the world's highest number of fudge shops per square foot πŸ˜‹.

Washington Island

Located at the tip of Door County, WI, this island is accessible year-round via a ferry. There is a handful of (mostly seasonal) businesses clustered a short distance from the ferry, but it is much more rustic than Mackinac.

You can start you day with breakfast treats at the lovely Red Cup Coffee House before heading out on a day's adventures. No visit here is complete without a stop at Stavkirke, a gorgeous wooden structure modeled after a 12th-century Norwegian church, which not only reflects the rich Scandinavian history of this place, but is also a glorious example of man's desire to capture the spirit of the natural world through artistic expression.

To get the lay of the land, there's no better way than heading over to Mountain Park Lookout to climb the 186 steps to the top for a bird's eye view of the surroundings, including Rock Island (see below) and the beginning of the Grand Traverse Islands in the distance.

For a journey to some of the most secluded nature pockets, I heartily recommend following the guide to Washington Island preserves published by the Door County Land Trust.

Especially wonderful is the Little Lake Nature Preserve, which covers 33 acres and more than 5,000 feet of shoreline surrounding the northern half Washington Island’s only inland lake. Winding through a wooded area, the 0.8-mile trail leads to a hidden surprise: a rocky isthmus between Little Lake and the open waters of Green Bay.

Both camping and cabin rentals are available at Washington Island Campground, and you can easily spend a couple of days here exploring the beaches and the natural bounty. Whether you've visiting for a day, or staying overnight, you may want to haul in your provisions, though you can resupply and the locally-owned Mann's Grocery.

Beaver Island

Beaver Island is more remote and getting there takes a greater time commitment (a 5.5 hour drive from Chicago to Charlevoix, followed by a 2-hour ferry ride). This is probably one to do it as a dedicated trip.

Beaver Island boasts one of the weirdest histories of any place in the US, as both a former kingdom (really), and rumored to have been Al Capone's super-secret hiding spot (unsubstantiated, but maybe it really was super-secret).

Kingdom or not, don’t expect grand resorts, Sunday mimosa brunch or flip-flop clad tourists (ok, there may be some flip-flops). There's a smattering of motels and a few restaurants. Cars are allowed, but the only paved road is in town. The rest of the 13 mile long and 6 mile wide island is entirely made up of dirt roads.

Even if you visit outside of the prime swimming season, Beaver Island is a beach lover's dream. We've hiked through clouds of migrating monarchs along the sandy embankments, and waded through endless shallows with waves receding to reveal the pebbly bottom, and gradually returning to wash our ankles. There's really very little reason to do anything else, but enjoy your practically guaranteed solitude, the endless blue and turquoise water views, and the screech of seagulls.

​Primitive camping, limited modern camping and and even glamping is available on the island, so it's entirely possible to build a multi-day bike-centered adventure (or bring the car over, and use a bike for shorter forays).

Bois Blanc Island

Now we're getting rustic. And remote.

Plan on a solid 8-hour drive from Chicago, a 45 minute ferry ride, and about 2 days to get your "island legs" πŸ˜†.

Known as Bob-lo to locals, this is Mackinac Island's larger --and much wilder-- sister. You must come prepared, as you will have a hard time finding anything but the most rudimentary necessities here.

In addition to the super-reliable ferry service from Cheboygan operated by Plaunt Transportation, are only two established businesses that operate (somewhat predictably) through approximately Thanksgiving.

​Lakeside Tavern (formerly Island Tavern, which shows "permanently closed" on Google, but yes! it's open, and operated by long-time island residents), is a local watering hole also featuring bar food, a pool table, shuffleboard and a juke box. The Outpost BBI, is a restaurant with pizza, ice cream and a general store with souvenirs (you will find it's referred to as "Hawk's", since it has operated as Hawk's Landing for many years under previous ownership).

You can rent a cottage, or even a yurt from private owners. For the adventurous, Bob-lo has several options for dispersed backcountry camping, with some amazing campsites overlooking Lake Huron, and a couple others on a serene inland lake. The best description and resource for finding camping is this township Parks & Rec document.

Bob-lo has no paved roads. The main road goes most (but not all) of the way around the island, and there are a couple other roads that transect it. But a car will only get you so far. To access some of the prime, out-of-the-way camping spots over the lumpy and muddy inland tracks, you will need (at a minimum) a gravel bike, a mountain bike, or --ideally-- a fatbike.

Other Shores!...

I need to mention a couple of islands with minimal or no amenities: South and North Manitou in Michigan, and Rock Island off the coast of Washington Island. These are primitive, natural, hike-in only bits of paradise, but because access to them is very limited after Labor Day, I will return to them next season, when you may be tempted to hide away somewhere you can't be found.

When touring around Lake Michigan, you must have fish and chips!! One of the best places in the Straits is Scalawags, which --before it relocated to Mackinac City-- used to be out go-to place for dinner while crossing over to Bois Blanc (so now you can get some when going to or from Mackinac Island).

If you're already this far north, hop over the Mackinac Bridge for some authentic UP pasties. Sposito's serves up some of the most mouth-watering savory pies anywhere.

Back on the Door County side, two words: Fish Boil. Kettle Black Fish Boil alternates traditional fish-boil made with locally caught whitefish, and Cajun-style shrimp and sausage option, against lakeside and harbor views.

And, have we mentioned fudge πŸ™‚? (We have.)

I love this wonderful description from a Beaver Island regular, and especially her plea to enjoy and keep it just as it is. Please do πŸ’™!)

Here's my own account of fatbiking adventures on Bois Blanc Island.

If you have kids? See if you can find a copy of Gerald Durrell's of Amateur Naturalist, a beautifully illustrated guide to the outside world. (Actually, you should get this, whether you have kids or not.)

And take my advice: run away to a Lake Michigan Island whether you have just a long weekend (Washington Island), or a whole week buffered by two weekends (do them all!).

While pining for distant lands, it's easy to forget that within a few short hours, and without the hefty price tag, there are local treasures that can take our breath away.

​

See you next week for another dose of

--Justyna

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Third Coast Adventure Hub

Off-the-beaten-path destinations, small adventure ideas, and gear for those yearning to breathe the big air around the incomparable coastline of Lake Michigan. Delivered FREE once a week.

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