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Tunnel of Trees & $1,000,000 Sunsets


After this technicolor weekend itinerary, you may need to spend a little time in monochrome recovery room.

But, don't worry, you'll get your chance. Because winter, with it's much more demure palette, is not too far away, so you might as well drink your fill of the warm side of the rainbow while the going is good.

Fellow Travelers, I don't know how it happened, but it's fall.

And, while in other parts of the globe each of the seasons gets roughly a quarter of the year, not so in the Midwest.

Over here, we squeeze the most beautiful season of the year into about three weeks straddling September and October, and then POOF!... all fun is gone, and it's all drab gray, dun brown with a bit of dirty slush thrown in for the next six months.

I dunno. I might prefer the polar winter, so at least you don't have to look at that stuff. (Then again, I've never lived through a polar winter, so please correct me if I'm wrong...)

But, my point? There's no time to lose if you want to seize the moment and bask in spectacular midwestern color!

This was taken several Octobers ago, when we were lucky enough to bike in this magical, sun-speckled, golden glowing, pumpkin spice scented paradise.

Kidding about the pumpkin spice πŸŽƒ. No Starbucks anywhere in sight πŸ˜‰. Just long stretches of fire-hued scenery through miles and miles of birch and maple forests.

Ahhhh, indeed!

In researching tent-friendly campgrounds along lake Michigan (for a super-secret project that is in the works for next season, psssst!...), I came across a hidden gem that few people know about, and it seemed like the perfect spot to incorporate into a beautiful midweek fall escape.

Read on!

For this adventure, we're going to head up to northern part of Michigan to the famed stretch of road known as the Tunnel of Trees. It's a 20-mile scenic driving route from Harbor Springs to Cross Village under a a nearly continuous spectacular canopy of trees.

Snaking along the Lake Michigan shoreline, with unparalleled views of the lake, it's one of the most breathtakingly scenic roads anywhere in the US.

You can do it as a car drive, but then it would be over in about an hour. (Though there are scenic and charming places to stop along the way to make your journey longer, if you like.)

But if you bring a bike?

Oh, man! You can stretch the ride under that sweet, fiery canopy for half a day or more!! Actually, the way we do it will be over two days, with camping mid-way to break it up πŸ•.

Tunnel of Trees is a narrow, single lane road, not divided by a center line, with only fog lines at the sides. Cars generally keep to the middle, except when passing. Traffic is sparse and slow moving, but cyclists should use caution and ride single file.

The route runs generally downhill from south to north, so prepare for a little more climbing on your return trip. It's mostly rolling terrain, but you will encounter one steep climb heading back south to Harbor Springs. You'll definitely need your granny gear for that one, or you can just hike it (#noshame πŸ˜ƒ).

The route will bring you to a dot on the map known as Cross Village with its famed Legs Inn, a sprawling Polish-American restaurant rich with history, lore and legend, which could be a great stop for your post-ride meal.

And then --if you haven't had enough color-- you'll finish it up with camping on the eastern shore of the lake with million dollar sunset views.

There is a little-known, private waterfront campsite, aptly named Million $ Sunset Camp. This little gem, situated on eight acres adjacent to Lake Michigan, offers 8 campsites, five of which are tent-only, and a couple sitting directly against the great lake shoreline, which is accessible by a short boardwalk.

After a gorgeous day of riding, you can pitch your tent, light a fire, chill out with the lapping waves, sunset spectacle and blissful solitude.

Assuming you've arrived the night before (there are tons of accommodations from basic motels, to one of a kind Otis of Harbor Springs, to uber-fancy Airbnb's), we'll aim to head out from Harbor Springs, MI early to make the most of the day.

If you're the type that needs to start with brekkie, Johan's Pastrry Shop offers a selection of bagels and opens at the crazy hour of 5:30 am. Otherwise, grab a coffee, and take that bagel to go to enjoy at a scenic stop, and let's get rolling.

You'll find no shortage of places along M119 to pull over to take in the views. Each one will try to pull you in with its specific charms, but I would suggest saving some for the return trip.

  • About 4 miles north of Harbor Springs, you can stretch your legs at the Thorn Swift Nature preserve with boardwalks leading to dune and lake overlooks.
  • If you're on a bike, at this point you have the option to "cheat" and stay the Lower Lake Shore Drive for the next 3 miles or so, until you arrive at Hoogland Family Nature Preserve, where you can rejoin M119.
  • In Middle Village, there is the lovely Trillium Woods Coffee shop with drinks, treats, and serene outdoor seating as well as comfy, rustic themed interior.
  • At about mile 12, you'll arrive at the sprawling metropolis of Good Hart. Just kidding. This tiny spot only has about 2-3 businesses, one of which is the must-not-miss General Store, where you can hang out with the locals, pet the family dogs and get a tasty, home-made nosh.
  • St. Ignatius Church. This former Jesuit Mission church --twice destroyed in a fire-- was originally established at Middle Village in 1741. The current structure was built in 1889. Next to the church is a Native American burial ground. Technically, this site is before you get to Good Hart, but it is accessible from Lamkin Rd. in town.
  • If driving this route, and have more time, you can take a detour at the Good Hart Farms Nature Preserve to explore miles of hiking trails through a mix of meadows woods, old orchards and pine plantations, with views of Lake Michigan from the rolling hills.
  • And at about mile 14, keep your eyes peeled for a turn off with views of Beaver Island.

You'll know you've arrived at Cross Village when you see the unmistakeable, formidable stone facade of Legs Inn.

(NB: If you'd rather not camp, Legs Inn has cottage accommodations available through October. Fun fact: we stayed in one of them about 35 years ago, but I assure you they've been remodeled since then, and are much nicer!!)

Here are some other places that may not fit neatly on the itinerary, but are definitely worth a poke-in if you can spare the time:

  • ​Three Pines Studio, Cross Village. A gallery showcasing exclusively the work of northern Michigan artists including paintings, fiber, linens, ceramics, jewelry, sculpture, blown glass, fairies, and wood. (And a vaction rental!)
  • ​A Studio Shop, Good Hart. Open seasonally from Memorial Day through October this local shop stocks one-of-a-kind items, accessories and gifts.
  • Also in Good Hart you'll find Primitive Images, a rustic gallery / tea room, with tea sampling in the garden and on the outside deck. Housed in a log cabin, this unique place stocks furnishings, decor and jewelry crafted by North Michigan artisans.

I assure you this trip will be the perfect way to celebrate midwestern Fall.

And, before you head back, make your last stop at Pond Hill Farm, which has grown from a small roadside produce stand to a must-see destination, where you can pick up a snack for the road, and grab some locally brewed beer, wine and other treats to bring the lingering memory of adventure home with you.

​

See you next week for another dose of

--Justyna

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